On our way to Cahors, the sun dispersed the skeins of mist, and we revelled in a rare view of the Pyrénées. On a clear day you can almost see the snow sparkling on the peaks, several hundred kilometres away. The mountains stood out as if someone had trained a gigantic magnifying glass on them, a sign of rain to come within a day or so.

I dropped off the SF for an appointment in the upper town and drove back to the lower town in search of parking. This isn’t easy in a place that is hemmed in by water and steep limestone slopes. Cahors squeezes into a loop of the River Lot, which was once an important commercial thoroughfare.

Celts to Romans

The town’s name derives from the Cadurci, a Celtic tribe that attempted without success to resist the Roman invasion. The townsfolk are still known as Cadurciens. The Romans quickly colonised the area, and remnants of their buildings remain.

Notable among these is the amphitheatre. If you descend to the underground car park beneath the Place Gambetta, you can view what remains of this once vast structure.

The Romans also brought vines and laid the foundation for one of Cahors’ main claims to fame, its wine. This strong, deep red wine, made from the Malbec grape, is known as the “black wine” of Cahors.

Legend of le Pont Valentré

I revisited the Pont Valentré, the town’s star attraction. This impressive 14^th-century bridge, constructed between 1308 and 1378, spans the Lot on the Western side of Cahors.

A legend is associated with the bridge. If you’re new to the blog, here it is again.

The slow pace of the construction work frustrated the foreman, so he struck a deal with the Devil to finish it. The foreman forfeited his soul in return for the Devil’s help with the bridge, provided that the Devil obeyed the foreman’s instructions.

When the bridge approached completion, the foreman regretted the pact. Therefore, he ordered the Devil to fetch water using only a sieve. Furious, the Devil sent a demon to damage the top stone in the middle tower every night, so that the bridge is never complete.

During restoration work in 1879, the architect placed a stone sculpture of a demon at the top of the middle tower. This aimed to confuse the Devil into thinking that his minion was carrying out his orders. Not a very bright Devil, clearly.

Lunch

Lunch must be a part of a day out. We wandered up the bustling Boulevard Gambetta in search of a suitable eatery.

The SF was hankering after saucisse-frites, but le patron of the restaurant we chose briskly informed him, “You won’t find saucisse-frites in Cahors, M’sieur.” However, another diner who said he was a regular assured us that we would eat well there. “You won’t find better in Cahors.”

Secret gardens trail

We have seen much of Cahors during previous visits, but plenty remains to discover. This time, we followed part of the secret gardens trail.

In 2002, the town inaugurated a series of 21 gardens with the emphasis on medieval plants, herbs, beliefs and superstitions. This was an original way of revitalising parts of the town as well as highlighting its medieval apogee.

You follow a trail around Cahors linked by brass bosses with acanthus leaves, set into the pavement. Following the whole trail would take several hours, so doing it in stages is best.

You frequently find quirky little touches in these gardens. The centrepiece of la Place aux Epices (No. 5) is la fontaine des chiens.

Last year, we visited le Courtil des Moines (the monks’ vegetable garden, no. 7) behind the cathedral. It’s currently closed for work, so here is an earlier shot.

Onwards to l’Hortus des Dames (vegetable garden of the Benedictine nuns, no.9) on the site of the former convent. A cherry blossom was in full flower.

There’s a limit to the sightseeing you can do in a day, so the upper town and the other gardens must wait for a subsequent visit.

Also, I am waiting for the Musée de la Résistance, which has been closed for years, to reopen. Apparently, this is scheduled for the end of 2025, i.e. too late for the 80^th anniversary of the liberation of Cahors, 17^th August 1944.

A visit to Cahors is always rewarding. We should go more often.

Tourist Office website.

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